Portsmouth...a real find.
Drove up from CT early Friday morning, cloudy and mild--great driving. About 3 hours--straight I-95 through Mass and into NH. Stopped at the NH Welcome Center -- there's a nice information center with tons of info. Picked up maps and brochures on things to do in and around Portsmouth.
EAsy off of 95 into downtown Portsmouth. Didn't know it would be as small a city, really a town. But so pretty and immediately a real surprise. Here;s a quaint, but bustling little New England harbor town. Couldn't check into our hotel until between 4 and 5 so we parked a couple blocks off the main center of town and kept coming back to feed the meter. The meter readers are rigid here! During peak tourist season they ask that you only stay in a space for 2 hours and then must move your vehicle...wah?! to WHERE? This town would get stuffed with tourists really quickly. Anyway, not a prob for us this weekend.
Walked around and shopped for a bit. Hit a fantastic little CD shop right off the bat-- Bull Moose Music. (a few locations peppered along the Maine and NH coastal areas). Picked up a continuation of road trip mood music- Thievery Corporation's Bossa Nova
Checked into our room at the Alehouse Inn at 4. D. was really looking forward to this--she'd booked it and was excited and paid a pretty penny. Alehouse Inn is a converted brewery that's been remade into 10 private "stylish" rooms. Our impression: there is no official front desk. You go up onto the 2nd floor of this building and in a small office are the concierge-attendant. It was a nice couple, clearly not the owners of this inn and not very knowledgeable about the local eateries--I was aksing for dinner recommendations. The room--for a cool $170+ / night-- was TINY and I don't need much space; bathroom TINIER. Clearly the moolah was for the accessories: big flat screen hi-def TV, fresh orchids, real drinking glasses, wine glasses with opener, a Keurig coffee maker (!), and amazing bed. But compared to a couple Kimpton hotels we've experienced in Memphis and Seattle, with comparable pricing--this was really subpar for the price, even with all the upscale accessories. And without a view. And without proprietary parking OR a valet to park it for you. We slept really well, but...In their favor, the room is very clean, very fresh.
Dinner we walked the few blocks to The Green Monkey. The reservations were all gone, but we got there early enough to sit at the bar and dine, along with almost everyone else. I: goat-stuffed half a roasted chicken with mashed yams and asparagus, D: espresso marinated filet with sauteed spinach and garlic mashed potatoes. Red Spanish wine. Delish. and two thumbs up. Waiting in line behind us when we finally left.
Rainy Sat night.
Sunday a.m. --overslept! Nearly 11 a.m. when we woke up. Packed our stuff and headed out. Raining and chilly. We stoped for breakfast at Popovers--yes, fresh baked popovers. I hadn't had one in years. I had mine plain with honey-butter. But you can order them stuffed and accessorized with fruit, eggs, etc. Great breakfast spot.
Then we headed back to CT. Already making plans to return. This was a great little town with a lot of flavor.
Monday, March 30, 2009
Monday, July 14, 2008
Three Months in Portland Oregon
It's summer in Portland, which means the more sunshine the natives can soak up the better. After September the rain returns, first in fits and starts then in steady and predictable day-after-day patterns.
Living in a high rise apartment building -- Harrison Towers -- just a couple blocks from the waterfront and Riverplace. Street car stops right out front and we gave it a go last Saturday. It;s very user-friendly and compared to larger cities one of the simplest mass transit vehicles I've ever used. Fare for a day is $1.75, but that's only if you travel outside the "Fare-free Zone," a large chunk of the downtown route you can ride for free.
Every Saturday morning we walk norht on Harrison a few blocks to the Portand Farmers Market. It's better to go early, less congested.
We've checked out the Pearl District and Alphabet District around 21st and 23rd streets-- also quite boutiquey with plenty of restaurants, pubs and coffeeshops. On teh EAst Side we've trekked up and down Hawthorne and introduced ourselves to the Alberta 'hood, a Bohemian hold-out and a refreshing breath of air after a Saturday afternoon along the busy strip of Hawthorne.
I think the best coffee I've had in Portland, this visit or the last visit, was Stumptown Coffee. Per cup the spend is a bit more, but this local roaster boasts some of the finest beans collected from all over the world. At the Farmers Market you can grab a cup, french press or special drip roasts.
Willamette Week, a free newsprint publication, puts out an annual city guide--the Willamette Week Finder is a must-have and is available in many retail places. We've used it to find new restaurants as well as explore neighborhoods.
This coming weekend we'll head to the coast, Newport or Seaside. We've been to Cannon Beach a couple of times when we were here two years ago. Time to try a couple new beach spots.
Living in a high rise apartment building -- Harrison Towers -- just a couple blocks from the waterfront and Riverplace. Street car stops right out front and we gave it a go last Saturday. It;s very user-friendly and compared to larger cities one of the simplest mass transit vehicles I've ever used. Fare for a day is $1.75, but that's only if you travel outside the "Fare-free Zone," a large chunk of the downtown route you can ride for free.
Every Saturday morning we walk norht on Harrison a few blocks to the Portand Farmers Market. It's better to go early, less congested.
We've checked out the Pearl District and Alphabet District around 21st and 23rd streets-- also quite boutiquey with plenty of restaurants, pubs and coffeeshops. On teh EAst Side we've trekked up and down Hawthorne and introduced ourselves to the Alberta 'hood, a Bohemian hold-out and a refreshing breath of air after a Saturday afternoon along the busy strip of Hawthorne.
I think the best coffee I've had in Portland, this visit or the last visit, was Stumptown Coffee. Per cup the spend is a bit more, but this local roaster boasts some of the finest beans collected from all over the world. At the Farmers Market you can grab a cup, french press or special drip roasts.
Willamette Week, a free newsprint publication, puts out an annual city guide--the Willamette Week Finder is a must-have and is available in many retail places. We've used it to find new restaurants as well as explore neighborhoods.
This coming weekend we'll head to the coast, Newport or Seaside. We've been to Cannon Beach a couple of times when we were here two years ago. Time to try a couple new beach spots.
Saturday, July 12, 2008
Streetwise Portland, Map Review
Streetwise maps are popular in most bookstores, they're laminated, folded and compact, so really appealing to travelers like us. HOWEVER....this is an inaccurate rendition of Portland streets: Streetwise Portland includes some street routes that don't exist and fails to show others that do exist. The map area is also very limited. My recommendation: go with the big clumsy fold out map for a more accurate trip about the city.
Streetwise Portland map--just say no.
Streetwise Portland map--just say no.
Looking for Good Pizza in Portland
I'm from Connecticut and I'll admit it, a pizza snob. I've eaten at Pepys Pizza and Modern Pizza, both in New Haven Ct and two of the best pizza places in the country. So I'm choosy.
Craving pizza this morning in a big way and on the West Coast. After reading a local guidebook decided to try Apizza Scholls tonight.
Located on the SE side of Portland at 4741 Hawthorne Blvd I had big expectations. Hours are 5 p.m. through 9:30 p.m. Get there early, the place was packed with easily an hour wait or so by 5:30. The place has limited seating area, thus the wait, plus it's apparently garnered a rep for good pizza pies.
We stood at the bar in the waiting area and enjoyed a glass of wine--makes the wait so much more bearable and when we were there the bar was clear. Lots of families and larger parties waiting for seats. We were seated ahead of quite a few parties because we were willing to take seats at the bar in the actual restaurant and there was only two of us.
Pizzas come in one size--large. My snooty review: pretty good for being clear across the country from really good NY pizza. Attention really paid to baking with high heat and making sure a goodly amount of char is put to the crust--really important when it comes to the serious craft of pizza baking.
Pizza could use a bit more mozz for me and parmesan cheese is meted out by the tablespoons and you have to ask for it. Sorry, but I come from a place where the parm is in jars on every table. Okay, so it costs money and this Portland restaurant boasts completely natural ingredients, which means parm is fresh and doesn't come in a jar that can sit at room temp,----still....
Overall, thumbs up on Apizza Scholls pies.
Red wine and beer on site, in limited quantities and they warn that they could run out of pizza dough on busy days....not sure how that could interrupt one's dinner plans, but....
Apizza Scholls
Craving pizza this morning in a big way and on the West Coast. After reading a local guidebook decided to try Apizza Scholls tonight.
Located on the SE side of Portland at 4741 Hawthorne Blvd I had big expectations. Hours are 5 p.m. through 9:30 p.m. Get there early, the place was packed with easily an hour wait or so by 5:30. The place has limited seating area, thus the wait, plus it's apparently garnered a rep for good pizza pies.
We stood at the bar in the waiting area and enjoyed a glass of wine--makes the wait so much more bearable and when we were there the bar was clear. Lots of families and larger parties waiting for seats. We were seated ahead of quite a few parties because we were willing to take seats at the bar in the actual restaurant and there was only two of us.
Pizzas come in one size--large. My snooty review: pretty good for being clear across the country from really good NY pizza. Attention really paid to baking with high heat and making sure a goodly amount of char is put to the crust--really important when it comes to the serious craft of pizza baking.
Pizza could use a bit more mozz for me and parmesan cheese is meted out by the tablespoons and you have to ask for it. Sorry, but I come from a place where the parm is in jars on every table. Okay, so it costs money and this Portland restaurant boasts completely natural ingredients, which means parm is fresh and doesn't come in a jar that can sit at room temp,----still....
Overall, thumbs up on Apizza Scholls pies.
Red wine and beer on site, in limited quantities and they warn that they could run out of pizza dough on busy days....not sure how that could interrupt one's dinner plans, but....
Apizza Scholls
Portland Farmer’s Market, Oregon
The Portland Farmer’s Market is not to be confused with the “Saturday Market” along the Willamette riverfront. The Portland Farmers’ Market is set up on the main campus of Portland State University, smack dab in the middle of downtown, every Saturday morning from April through mid-December. In the realm of farmer’s markets this is an epic length of time and offers access to an impressive scope of seasonal and regional foods. Vendors are almost exclusively farmers and small agricultural producers from the region: the Columbia River Gorge and Hood River areas. There is a mix of organic and traditional, but all feature a luxurious spread of their earth-wares.
Come prepared to carry bags. Market veterans tote their own handled shopping baskets. You’ll find fresh artisan cheeses, rustic breads, sinfully delicious baked goods—try the pumpkin scones and pumpkin chocolate chip cookies. Fresh berries include regional favorites the huckleberries and marionberries, and fresh veggies include heirloom varieties of almost everything that springs from the soil. If you want exotic meat, shop for range-raised elk and buffalo. Crave seafood? Stroll the tents for fresh Dungeness crab, mussels and regional fish varieties. Vendors tug them up fresh from the depths of ice packs. Just walk nearby and I swear you can smell the sweetness of the Pacific Ocean. As compliment to your baked bread don’t miss the homemade preserves and for your veggies and meat there are fresh and unique marinades and artisan rubs, custom-blended and artfully packaged. Brave a taste if you’re unsure.
Don’t leave without an armload of fresh-cut flowers, either. The only other place I’ve seen fresh bouquets this inexpensive and luscious was at Pike’s Place Market in Seattle. Bouquets are built from a foundation of plump dahlias, to which are added generous stalks of daisies, husky sunflowers, cosmos, even globe thistle. Smaller bunches start at $8 and go up from there. If there is a special combination of blossoms or colors you’d like it’s possible the vendor will hand-pick you a custom bouquet on-the-fly.
My favorite finds have been the sweet, red curry squash, pumpkin chocolate chip cookies, extra sharp cheddar cheese, fresh raspberries, and heirloom tomatoes of any kind.
If you are parking nearby don’t forget to pay the parking kiosk – they are located in various spots along every street block -- and tape your stub to the inside of your car window. Expect to walk a few blocks to the market. If you’re a coffee-monger you’ll easily find a few coffee joints along the way, including the ubiquitous Starbucks. Alternative brewers include a nearby Coffee People and Illy if you want something different. Come to the market hungry and you’ll find a foodie midway. There are fresh breakfast burritos, natural biscuits, fresh artichoke and goat cheese tamales, and even Asian stir-fries, all fresh made while you wait.
Figure in plenty of time for grabbing a sit on a bench or beneath a tree. Besides the produce this is some of the best people-watching, dog-petting and free folk-music around.
Come prepared to carry bags. Market veterans tote their own handled shopping baskets. You’ll find fresh artisan cheeses, rustic breads, sinfully delicious baked goods—try the pumpkin scones and pumpkin chocolate chip cookies. Fresh berries include regional favorites the huckleberries and marionberries, and fresh veggies include heirloom varieties of almost everything that springs from the soil. If you want exotic meat, shop for range-raised elk and buffalo. Crave seafood? Stroll the tents for fresh Dungeness crab, mussels and regional fish varieties. Vendors tug them up fresh from the depths of ice packs. Just walk nearby and I swear you can smell the sweetness of the Pacific Ocean. As compliment to your baked bread don’t miss the homemade preserves and for your veggies and meat there are fresh and unique marinades and artisan rubs, custom-blended and artfully packaged. Brave a taste if you’re unsure.
Don’t leave without an armload of fresh-cut flowers, either. The only other place I’ve seen fresh bouquets this inexpensive and luscious was at Pike’s Place Market in Seattle. Bouquets are built from a foundation of plump dahlias, to which are added generous stalks of daisies, husky sunflowers, cosmos, even globe thistle. Smaller bunches start at $8 and go up from there. If there is a special combination of blossoms or colors you’d like it’s possible the vendor will hand-pick you a custom bouquet on-the-fly.
My favorite finds have been the sweet, red curry squash, pumpkin chocolate chip cookies, extra sharp cheddar cheese, fresh raspberries, and heirloom tomatoes of any kind.
If you are parking nearby don’t forget to pay the parking kiosk – they are located in various spots along every street block -- and tape your stub to the inside of your car window. Expect to walk a few blocks to the market. If you’re a coffee-monger you’ll easily find a few coffee joints along the way, including the ubiquitous Starbucks. Alternative brewers include a nearby Coffee People and Illy if you want something different. Come to the market hungry and you’ll find a foodie midway. There are fresh breakfast burritos, natural biscuits, fresh artichoke and goat cheese tamales, and even Asian stir-fries, all fresh made while you wait.
Figure in plenty of time for grabbing a sit on a bench or beneath a tree. Besides the produce this is some of the best people-watching, dog-petting and free folk-music around.
Sunday, July 6, 2008
Zydeco at the Portland Waterfront Blues Festival
I actually have listened to quite a bit of Blues music, but had never really spent any time taking in Zydeco. And I certainly have never seen live Zydeco with performers within a couple dozen feet of me. We spent most of our time at the Waterfront blues Festival front and center at the Front Porch Stage, the designated Zydeco venue. A smaller stage, set well away from the most trafficked area this is, as far as I'm concerned, the hot-spot for great Louisiana, Zydeco music. The washboard was amazing and some of the playing was quite athletic. Cedryl Ballou and his band almost seems to meld a few hip-hop style moves into their washboard and accordion playing. Cedryl, the band leader may be only in his 20s and his arsenal of accordions spans from the traditional to the an orange tiger striped.
Take it some Zydeco for a Blues change.
Cedyrl Ballou band is 3 generations of Ballou family on stage with a 9-year old nephew banging it out on the drums. Sound hokey? Add in a musician friend on washboard with some hip-hop-like moves and this was a really unique crew. Cedryl takes some traditional Zydeco sounds and turns up the volume. The band can turn out some innovative mash-ups of zydeco and recognizable R&B melodies which appeals.
Take it some Zydeco for a Blues change.
Cedyrl Ballou band is 3 generations of Ballou family on stage with a 9-year old nephew banging it out on the drums. Sound hokey? Add in a musician friend on washboard with some hip-hop-like moves and this was a really unique crew. Cedryl takes some traditional Zydeco sounds and turns up the volume. The band can turn out some innovative mash-ups of zydeco and recognizable R&B melodies which appeals.
Saturday, July 5, 2008
Portland OR: Waterfront Blues
Already into 3 months in Portland. Living a couple blocks from Tom McCall Waterfront park and the bank of the Willamette River (bisects Portland). This weekend great blues festival on the river. The Waterfront Blues Festival is in its 21st year and benefits the Portland food bank--so part of visitor admission includes two cans of food as a contribution.
The performances run back to back all weekend long. I actually thought we'd be able to hear the music from the apartment, but there's too many obstructions in the way. However, we had a great view of the fireworks last night from the apt--amazing and unexpected--didn't think we'd see a thing then they were suddenly right there.
Portland Blues Festival
We spent most of Saturday afternoon and evening soaking up all manner of Blues music and engaging in some seriously excellent people-watching. Performers take one of five different stages located along the waterfront and one on a cruise boat. Front Porch Stage located at the far north end of the event featured Zydeco bands. Because neither of us had ever had the opportunity to hear much Zydeco we stuck close to this area.
We really enjoyed Chris Ardoin, Rosie Ledet, and Cedryl Ballou and the Zydeco Trendsetters.
Even better, Front Porch stage is a smaller venue, much less trafficked and setup with rows of aluminum benches. We could grab a great seat.
Plenty of opps for buying performer cds, plus all the festival merchandise you could want, blues music souvenirs, etc.
WBF Blog
One thing disappointed me: the WBF Blog. Before we set out yesterday I pulled up the blog--I expected a blow-by-blow first hand account of the festival, festival goers, a bit of the sights, sounds and flavors, but instead I found it stagnant. The last post was entered on June 11th nearly a month ago. Here's the thing, official event photographers roam throughout the event snapping noteworthy photos for some publication I'm sure. And on the Front Porch side stage I saw a young woman scribbling notes, as well, maybe for a press piece. So why not a blogger? Okay great way to keep event goers on the edge of their seats in advance of the event, but what a missed opportunity to excite others (like me) via the festival blog. Blog--regularly updated and features the most up-to-the-minute, as it's happening thoughts, events, etc. Too bad this languished.
Official Waterfront Blues Festival website provides almost all the information a visitor needs to know.
The performances run back to back all weekend long. I actually thought we'd be able to hear the music from the apartment, but there's too many obstructions in the way. However, we had a great view of the fireworks last night from the apt--amazing and unexpected--didn't think we'd see a thing then they were suddenly right there.
Portland Blues Festival
We spent most of Saturday afternoon and evening soaking up all manner of Blues music and engaging in some seriously excellent people-watching. Performers take one of five different stages located along the waterfront and one on a cruise boat. Front Porch Stage located at the far north end of the event featured Zydeco bands. Because neither of us had ever had the opportunity to hear much Zydeco we stuck close to this area.
We really enjoyed Chris Ardoin, Rosie Ledet, and Cedryl Ballou and the Zydeco Trendsetters.
Even better, Front Porch stage is a smaller venue, much less trafficked and setup with rows of aluminum benches. We could grab a great seat.
Plenty of opps for buying performer cds, plus all the festival merchandise you could want, blues music souvenirs, etc.
WBF Blog
One thing disappointed me: the WBF Blog. Before we set out yesterday I pulled up the blog--I expected a blow-by-blow first hand account of the festival, festival goers, a bit of the sights, sounds and flavors, but instead I found it stagnant. The last post was entered on June 11th nearly a month ago. Here's the thing, official event photographers roam throughout the event snapping noteworthy photos for some publication I'm sure. And on the Front Porch side stage I saw a young woman scribbling notes, as well, maybe for a press piece. So why not a blogger? Okay great way to keep event goers on the edge of their seats in advance of the event, but what a missed opportunity to excite others (like me) via the festival blog. Blog--regularly updated and features the most up-to-the-minute, as it's happening thoughts, events, etc. Too bad this languished.
Official Waterfront Blues Festival website provides almost all the information a visitor needs to know.
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