Road Trip South Dakota -- My Best Kept Secret

Driving South Dakota – Mustang Ranches, Hoodoos, and Geologic Monoliths

I really have a thing against those headline articles entitled "X, A Best Kept Secret" because, duh, now it's no longer a best kept secret and who the hell would want to go there with the throngs of newbies hatched from that high profile article? So why did I name a SD roadtrip a best kept secret? Number one--it is still a minority that will actually have the gusto to take on the long-distance tar--if you do, kudos and may the road rise to meet you, you'll not be disappointed. And South Dakota is one of those states that many Americans could say, "Now where is South Dakota again? It's up near the Great Lakes or near California, isn't it?" It truly is a best kept secret. Here's my impression of southern South Dakota if I can inspire you to secretly getaway from it all...



South Dakota for me was an unexpected surprise and cacophony of variations. One minute there was epic expanse of waning sunflowers-- acres and acres of them as far as I could see-- then just as suddenly leagues of open range, the color and texture of suede; beyond those were pockets of mustang ranches.

Alongside I-90, at mile marker 139, over some no-name hillock the earth splits in an open crevice, then a few small crevasses, very subtle at first, if open gashes in the surface of a skin could be considered subtle. Each chasm is that much more significant, leftovers from a violent and ancient cleaving with each passing mile. Just past Kadoka, SD, route 240 marks the head of Badlands Scenic Loop. A few hours later into our trip the Badlands had become almost too much of the same thing; high, wind-carved cathedrals the color of bone. Voracious wind-- if we had stood in one spot long enough we would have been ground down, ourselves; chewed and striated by the hot harsh wind that probably killed cowboys once upon a time.

In one particular spot the limestone is the color of pink cotton candy, in another the color of a bright banana peel; the ancient sediment spun with geologic anomalies. We munched a buffalo hotdog on our drive out of the canyons.

From Badlands to Black Hills

And just as suddenly as we were overtaken by the strange Badlands, we were overcome by Black Hills. The South Dakota Black Hills are home to log cabins and cheap beef dinners. The area is thankfully unpretentious, comfortable in the visual riches they have to offer and not at all disposed to waging commercial competition for attention.

We avoided the pricey fee for going all the way into Crazy Horse, we took pictures from the road. The carving is immense, much bigger than the President’s heads on Mount Rushmore. The park fee goes toward supporting the epic carving project, but we were pretty wrung out on sight-seeing funds by the time we made it to this point. If you are interested in the history, pay the park fee and enjoy the interpretive center, otherwise there are good photo opps just outside the park gates.

South of Crazy Horse, outside Custer, SD we rented a small one-room log cabin. Owned and operated by a log home construction company the cabin was outfitted with all the modern conveniences. It cost us just over $100 for the night, less than a decent hotel and it was loaded with character, not to mention the perfect ambience in which to experience the South Dakota wilderness. If we had had more time we would have stayed longer and used the outdoor fire ring and fishing hole and spent an evening taking in the light show of a wide open night sky.

Our best driving tip of the trip was for Needles Scenic drive- a two to three hour drive through the best hidden twists and turns of the Black Hills. The drive, we cut it short by taking a short cut, really offers the best views of notable Black Hills peaks: Cathedral Spires and the Needles, both dramatic upright spikes of granite that scream ancient earth movement, looking thrust upright in a violent once-upon-a-time collision of tectonic plates or glacial tsunami. You can find Needles Drive not far from Crazy Horse. Follow routes 16A and 87. If you have a detailed map you can also cut the drive short if you need to; we did.

Our other “best of” recommendation was the dinner tip. In little downtown Hill City, just north of Custer, the Alpine Inn delivers a rare specialty: filet mignon dinner with all the trappings for $9.95 (no, not a typo). You can choose a smaller filet for $7.95, but we were hungry and totally taking advantage of the opportunity. Our total bill (for two) came to just under $30 and that with a glass of wine each added to the special. Do not expect options. This is the meal they serve every night, all year long.

Head West, young woman and man.